When looking back at the 2 years during which COVID shut the world down, it’s hard to believe that this…actually…happened.
It now seems like a bad nightmare, an alternate Zombie universe!
So when travel opened up again in February 2022, it was all guns blazing with travellers looking to re-book trips that had been moth-balled in 2020. This included myself, and in September 2022, I was able to finally re-schedule my much-anticipated trip to South Korea. At the time, there were still some travel restrictions in place and not all tours had been re-instated. But there was Intrepid’s South Korea Real Food Adventure, a Food Lover’s version of my original tour choice, which was what I went with. And I do not regret the decision one iota as it was a great mix of Old and Modern culture, a bit of the great outdoors, and of course, lashings of wonderful food!

We started our journey by having to take a COVID test prior to departure from Australia, and another as soon as we arrived in Seoul. The Korean system on the ground was very efficient – Immigration, bags, proceed to the testing area just outside the arrivals hall, queue to pay, then queue to be tested, then proceed directly to your hotel to wait for the results that evening. At about 9pm, we were happy to receive our negative test results, unlike 1 unlucky tour group member who tested positive, and had to quarantine for 5 days before flying straight home. Such were the trials of travelling back then!
Being a food-focussed tour, our Intrepid leader, Yong, was the ultimate foodie, and took us to his favourite haunts to sample such iconic Korean delights as KFC – Korean Fried Chicken – four ways!, kimbap (Korean sushi), Mandu (dumplings filled with meat or veg), Bimbap (Korean Rice Bowl). In coastal Busan, where seafood is the highlight, we headed for the Jagalchi Fish Market where we sampled a variety of unusual marine fare: sea cucumber (crunchy but innoucuous), raw octopus (still wriggling) and the unfortunately-titled Penis worm (unsavoury by name and nature – I wouldn’t recommend it to my worst enemy!) Most meals were accompanied by a huge selection of Banchan, or side dishes, comprising a choice of pickled and cooked veg and/or fish, which were a meal in themselves. Occasionally, we were let off the leash and we sampled street food and snacks on our own: dried squid, Odeng Guk (fish cake on a stick), Spicy Tteokbokki (rice noodle/cake) with Soondae (blood sausage) and all manner of deep-fried goodies!
This was washed down with copious amounts of Cass beer, Sochu (rice spirit) and Makgeoli (rice beer – my favourite!)

Other food-related activities that were included in the tour were a couple of classes introducing us to the methods of making Gochuchang – the chili paste that flavours much of Korean cuisine – and Kimchi – a condiment without which no Korean meal is complete. In fact, according to Yong, there is a fridge in most Korean households specifically used for storing Kimchi, a term which incorporates all the pickled and fermented versions, ranging from the Wombok cabbage version that we are used to seeing, to white radish, carrot, spring onion, or a combination of different vegetables.
With all this food, it was lucky that the tour included some physical activity such as a walk to a waterfall near the base of Mt Gangcheon and a wander around the beautiful Haedong Temple, built into the rocks by the sea. During our stay in the Traditional Hanok Village of Jeonju, some of the younger tour group members – not us!- hired Korean Hanbok (National Dress) and strolled the streets in their finery. We also had the opportunity to stay overnight and live, briefly, like the monks of the Golgulsa Temple in Gyeongju. On arrival we were issued with our uniform of tunic and loose pants, and invited to stroll the gardens, or take part in their unique type of martial arts known as sunmudo, before our vegan dinner.

Next morning’s activities began with a 4 am wake-up for a morning meditation before more training – 108 prostrations. I have to confess that I made it to about 30!
Apart from these exceptions, the tour didn’t include many non-food-related sightseeing. So we booked a few extra days in Seoul to have a bit more of a look around. First stop was one of the many Palaces of Seoul – A bonus for people who have come dressed in Korean Hanbok – entry is free! We chose to visit, in Western Attire, the UNESCO-listed Changdeokgung Palace. Constructed originally in the 15th Century, it has been rebuilt and expanded over the years to its current sprawl over 57.9ha, and is a showcase of Official and Residential buildings set in wonderful gardens. There is even a Secret Garden that one can pay extra to visit, but it was a hot day and our feet were worn out.
Finally, no trip to South Korea is complete without a visit to the Demilitarized Zone or DMZ – the buffer zone on each side of the ceasefire line between North and South Korea. Technically, the 2 countries are still at war, and it was interesting, and somewhat chilling, to experience the formalities that exist in this No-Man’s Land. Pre-COVID, it was possible to visit the Joint Security Area (JSA) to see soldiers from both sides standing off menacingly at each other. In September 2022, the JSA was still off-limits. Post COVID the JSA is likely to remain off-limits indefinitely after the July 2023 defection of a US soldier across the border to North Korea to escape legal charges.
So ended my short but sweet trip to South Korea. New tours and options are cropping up daily, so if I have whetted your appetite for KFC or K-Pop, come and see us at Thor Travel for a chat!
God mannagil balayo!
(I hope to see you soon!)